Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас

Meyer, and Lyman Stone, “The World and United States Cotton Outlook,” U.S. Department of Agriculture, February 23, 2018, https://www.usda.gov/oce/forum/2018/commodities/Cotton.pdf.

207

“World Cotton Market,” Cotton Australia, n.d., https://cottonaustralia.com.au/cotton-library/fact-sheets/cotton-the-world-cotton-market.

208

“U.S. Currency: How Money is Made – Paper and Ink,” Bureau of Engraving and Printing, U.S. Department the Treasure, n.d., https://www.moneyfactory.gov/hmimpaperandink.html.

209

Stacy Howell, “How Much of the World’s Clothing Is Made from Cotton?” Livestrong, July 21, 2015.

210

“The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton,” Environmental Justice Foundation, December 31, 2007.

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Katy Willis, “Cotton’s Dirty Secret: Are You Wearing This Toxic Crop?” Timetocleanse.com, March 4, 2015, https://www.timetocleanse.com/cottons-dirty-secret/.

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Melody Meyer, “Dig Deeper, Chemical Cotton,” Rodale Institute, February 4, 2014, www.organicconsumers.org/news/chemical-cotton.

213

Stephen Leahy, “World Water Day: The Cost of Cotton in Water-Challenged India”, The Guardian, March 20, 2015, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2015/mar/20/cost-cotton-water-challenged-india-world-water-day.

214

Rhonda P. Hill, “1,000 Gallons of Water,” Edge, August 27, 2016, https://edgexpo.com/2016/08/27/1000-gallons-of-water/.

215

John Kerr and John Landry, “The Pulse of the Fashion Industry,” Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda, May 2017, 11.

216

Англ. self-edge, откуда, по созвучию, «селвидж». – Прим. пер.

217

Jenny Balfour-Paul, Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans (Buffalo, NY: Firefly, 2012), 69.

218

Balfour-Paul, 60.

219

Lynn Downey, Levi Strauss: The Man Who Gave Blue Jeans to the World (Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 2016), 116.

220

Downey, 137.

221

Интервью, данное Трейси Панек автору, Сан-Франциско, 13 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Панек происходят из этого интервью.

222

Downey, Levi Strauss, 141, 192.

223

Downey, 239.

224

Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin, 2014), 110.

225

Англ. in proximity – «вблизи», «по соседству». – Прим. пер.

226

Улица на Манхэттене, где сконцентрированы офисы ведущих рекламных агентств и фешенебельные магазины. – Прим. пер.

227

Isabel Wilkinson, “The Story Behind Brooke Shields’s Famous Calvin Klein Jeans,” T: The New York Times Style Magazine, December 2, 2015, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/02/t-magazine/fashion/brooke-shields-calvin-klein-jeans-ad-eighties.html.

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Wilkinson, “The Story Behind Brooke Shields’s Famous Calvin Klein Jeans.”

229

Matt W. Cody, Calvin Klein (New York: Chelsea House, 2013).

230

Yafa, Cotton, 230.

231

Yafa, 216.

232

McClendon, Denim, 146.

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Akhi Akter, “Vietnamese Textile and Apparel Industry Moving Towards US$50 Billion by 2020,” Textile Today, February 3, 2018, https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/vietnamese-textile-apparel-industry-moving-towards-us50-billion-2020/.

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“Production Value of Denim Jeans in Vietnam from 2012 to 2021,” Statista.com, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/743835/denim-jeans-production-value-vietnam.

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George Ayompe, “The ‘True Denim Capital of the World,’ Is a Disgrace to the Industry,” Aetuba.com, February 12, 2017, https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/true-denim-capital-world-disgrace-industry-we-should-act-ayompe/.

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Интервью, данное Салли Фокс автору, Брукс, Калифорния, 14 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Фокс происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.

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Соответственно 0,4; 2 и 4,5 га. – Прим. пер.

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Ок. 40 500 га. – Прим. пер.

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Caroline Fairchild, “Does Levi Strauss Still Fit America?” Fortune, October 6, 2014, http://fortune.com/2014/09/18/levi-strauss-chip-bergh/.

240

Karl Schoenberger, Levi’s Children: Coming to Terms with Human Rights in the Marketplace (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000), 25–31.

241

Robert Howard, “Values Make the Company: An Interview with Robert Haas,” Harvard Business Review, October 1990, https://hbr.org/1990/09/values-make-the-company-an-interview-with-robert-haas.

242

Teri Agins and Joann S. Lublin, “Levi Strauss Sees Philip Marineau As a Right Fit to Be Brand Builder,” The Wall Street Journal, September 8, 1999, https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB93674980745078128.

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Nina Munk, “How Levi’s Trashed a Great American Brand,” Fortune, April 12, 1999, http://archive.fortune.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/1999/04/12/258131/index.htm.

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“Spotlight: Belgian Strike Protests Levi Strauss Plant Closings,” Los Angeles Times, October 2, 1998.

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Интервью, данное Аннабель Николс автору, Нэшвилл, 21 августа 2016 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Николс происходят из этого интервью.

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Suzanne Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant,” Our Life at Work, December 6, 2012.

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“Back in the Day: Halting Those Denim Blues,” Knoxville News Sentinel, October 5, 2014, http://archive.knoxnews.com/business/back-in-the-day-halting-those-denim-blues-ep-648080710-354171531.html.

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Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant.”

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Выборы в федеральные органы власти США проходят ежегодно в ноябре, дата назначается федеральным правительством на вторник после первого понедельника ноября. – Прим. пер.

250

“Levi to Close 11 Plants, Cut a Third of Jobs,” Associated Press, November 4, 1997.

251

“Levi to Close 11 Plants, Cut a Third of Jobs.”

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Coile, “Levi’s Strauss Plant.”

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Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 162.

254

Amy Doan, “Levi Strauss’ Frayed Fortunes,” Forbes, September 29, 2000.

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Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 54.

256

Agins and Lublin, “Levi Strauss Sees Philip Marineau as a Right Fit to Be Brand Builder.”