Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас

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115

“Has the Fast Fashion Cycle Created an Ex-Post Licensing System?” Fashion Law, August 13, 2015.

116

Harry Wallop, “Primark Profits Fall on High Cotton Prices,” Telegraph, November 8, 2011, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/8876145/Primark-profits-fall-on-high-cotton-prices.html.

117

Интервью, данное Мар Мартинес автору, Лос-Анджелес, 10 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Мартинес происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.

118

Интервью, данное Илсе Метчек автору, Лос-Анджелес, 6 октября 2017 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Метчек происходят из этого интервью, если не указано иное.

119

Мартинес, интервью, данное автору.

120

George White, “Workers Held in Near-Slavery, Officials Say,” Los Angeles Times, August 3, 1995.

121

Janna Shadduck-Hernández, Marissa Nuncio, Zacil Pech, Mar Martinez, Dirty Threads, Dangerous Factories: Health and Safety in Los Angeles’ Fashion Industry,” UCLA Labor Center, 2016, https://www.labor.ucla.edu/publication/dirty-threads-dangerous-factories-health-and-safety-in-los-angeles-fashion-industry/.

122

Natalie Kitroeff and Victoria Kim, “Behind a $13 Shirt, a $6-an-Hour Worker”, Los Angeles Times, August 31, 2017, https://www.latimes.com/projects/fi-forever-21-factory-workers/.

123

Ben Bergman, “Labor Department Investigation Finds 85 Percent of LA Garment Factories Break Wage Rules,” 89.3 KPCC, November 17, 2016, https://www.scpr.org/news/2016/11/17/66200/labor-department-investigation-finds-85-percent-of/.

124

Jason McGahan, “L.A. Fashion District a Fire Trap for Garment Workers, Study Finds,” L.A. Weekly, December 12, 2016.

125

Не использующие потогонные производства. – Прим. пер.

126

Marx Engels Collected Works, Volume 38 (New York: International Publishers, 1846), 95, http://hiaw.org/defcon6/works/1846/letters/46_12_28.html. Здесь и далее цитаты К. Маркса и Ф. Энгельса приводятся по собранию сочинений К. Маркса и Ф. Энгельса (Изд. 2. М.: Госполитиздат, 1955).

127

Friedrich Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1993), 75.

128

Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin 2005), 103.

129

Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England, 118.

130

Engels, 138.

131

Engels, 152.

132

Engels, 164–166.

133

Engels, 173–175.

134

Engels, 170–173.

135

Engels, 182.

136

Engels, 283.

137

Nancy C. Carnevale, “Culture of Work: Italian Immigrant Women Homeworkers in the New York City Garment Industry, 1890-1914,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 164.

138

US House of Representatives, 52nd Congress, 2nd Session, “Report of the Committee of Manufactures on the Sweating System” Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, January 20, 1893).

139

Eileen Boris, “Social Responsibility on a Global Level: The National Consumers League, Fair Labor, and Worker Rights at Century’s End,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New Fordham University Press, 2005), 214–16.

140

Marlis Schweitzer, When Broadway Was the Runway: Theater, Fashion, and American Culture (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2009), 75.

141

Boris, “Social Responsibility on a Global Level,” 215.

142

Boris, 215.

143

David Von Drehle, Triangle: The Fire That Changed America (New York: Grove Press, 2004), 167.

144

Blass and Horyn, Bare Blass, 19–22.

145

Blass and Horyn, 11.

146

“Fred Pomrantz, Founder of a Women’s Wear Daily,” The New York Times, February 21, 1986, https://www.nytimes.com/1986/02/21/obituaries/fred-pomrantz-founder-of-a-women-s-wear-daily.html.

147

Bernice Kanner, “Scandal on Seventh Avenue,” New York, June 23, 1993.

148

Teri Agins, “Loose Threads: Dressmaker Leslie Fay Is an Old-Style Firm That’s in a Modern Fix,” The Wall Street Journal, February 23, 1993.

149

Kanner, “Scandal on Seventh Avenue,” 40.

150

Kanner, 42.

151

Kanner, 47.

152

David Silverman, “What Leslie Fay’s Former CEO Learned From His Company’s Bankruptcy,” Harvard Business Review, April 20, 2010, https://hbr.org/2010/04/what-john-pomerantz-former-ceo.

153

Bob Herbert, “In America; Leslie Fay’s Logic,” The New York Times, June 19, 1994, https://www.nytimes.com/1994/06/19/opinion/in-america-leslie-fay-s-logic.html.

154

Lance Compa and Tashia Hinchliffe-Darricarrère, “Enforcing International Labor Rights Through Corporate Codes of Conduct,” Columbia Journal of Transnational Law, 1995, 676, https://digitalcommons.ilr.cornell.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=https://www.google.com/&httpsredir=1&article=1178&context=articles.

155

Bob Ortega, In Sam We Trust: The Untold Story of Sam Walton and How Walmart Is Devouring America (New York: Times Books, 1998), 245.

156

Frank Swoboda, “Sears Agrees to Police Its Suppliers,” Washington Post, March 31, 1992, https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1992/03/31/sears-agrees-to-police-its-suppliers/636ef744-6794-4780-a984-2f9c293da6c7/.

157

Karl Schoenberger, Levi’s Children: Coming to Terms with Human Rights in the Global Marketplace (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000), 57.

158

Swoboda, “Sears Agrees to Police Its Suppliers.”

159

Schoenberger, Levi’s Children, 65.

160

Alexandra Harney, The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage (New York: Penguin Press, 2008), 197–99.

161

“Southeast Textiles, S.A. (SETISA) Choloma, Cortes, Honduras” New York: National Labor Committee, October 2003.

162

“Southeast Textiles, S.A. (SETISA) Choloma, Cortes, Honduras.”

163

“Are We Exporting